Hidden Gems of the West: Katavi & Mahale

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My excitement has been building for months.  Here I am about to travel to western Tanzania, one of the most remote and exclusive safari destinations in the vast country. For 7 nights I will be completely off the grid and far removed from the main tourist circuit of the northern Serengeti eco-system.  For years I have heard of these magical places; Katavi where one can still find wild untouched Africa and Mahale nestled onto the shores of Lake Tanganyika between the sweet warm waters of blue full of tropical fish and the majestic rain forested Mahle Mountains which tower up thousands of feet above the lake.  This is the land of the chimps.  The legendary camp which gives adventurous travelers the unique opportunity to interact with habituated chimpanzee families in their natural setting.  I have dreamed of Lake Tanganyika of over 30 years as I heard the rumors of the mysterious lake which connects Burundi to Zambia cutting straight across the north-south border of Congo and Tanzania.  Here is the second deepest lake in the world and one of the biggest in Africa.  Here is where the infamous ferry boat travels on its weekly journey across these waters - the ferry being a converted German War ship from the early 20th century and still plugging along today.  Amazing history and I am about to jump right in!




Katavi

We boarded our 12 seat Caravan plane and flew from Arusha in the early dawn out to Lake Manyara for a quick stop and then to the far north of the Serengeti where I could see the migration in full force at the Mara river crossing.  From there we doubled back south to Tabora for a refueling stop and then on to Mahale - 5 hours of flying but worth every minute I am sure.

After touching down at the dirt strip I am met by my jovial guide, John, who takes me to Nomad’s mobile styled camp called Chada Katavi overlooking the Chada Plains from a snug position nestled into a riverine forest.  We check in and head out on a game drive.  This is prime season in Tanzania - late September dry season and a perfect time to be here for game viewing.  Within 30 minutes we reach the Kavu section of the park and John’s eagle eyes spot a shy leopard in tree. What luck to see one of Africa’s rarest creatures and one of my favorites on our first day!  The leopard climbed up impossibly high in the tree to hide from us but we get a good look at her before heading off to enjoy a sundowner gin and tonic overlooking the water hole. A perfect start to the trip!

Back at camp we settle in and meet the other guests staying in the 6 forest tents.  There is a family of 3 from Austria, a couple from England, and 2 couples from Sweden.  Soon we are bonding over a delicious dinner.  As I return to my tent for dinner I find a  family of vervet black faced monkey with a baby are sharing my shade tree.   


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